Dartmoor with Kids - Two Days of Wild Wonder

Since our last travel posts from Rome in early 2024, life has been a whirlwind of challenges - working evenings and weekends to tackle debts, coping with bereavements, car troubles, plumbing disasters, and a myriad of other emergencies. After the heartbreaking loss of our beloved dog during our Italy trip, we actually wondered if we'd ever travel again.

But in May 2025, during the half-term break, everything changed. Thanks to my dad's generous offer to use his empty maisonette near Newton Abbot, we embarked on a frugal adventure to Devon. This time, we would be raising the bar - the UK is not known for its shoestring friendliness!

Inspired by the diverse "biomes" in Minecraft, we set out to explore the following climes:

• Moorlands

• Tors

• Ancient woodlands

• Temperate rainforests

• Coastal rock pools

• Charming fishing towns

…all while keeping expenses absolutely minimal! The Mudies were off to Dartmoor!

Day 1 AM: Waterfall Exploration and Ancient Woodland Adventure

Eschewing popular attractions like Becky Falls and Canonteign Falls (which look beautiful but come with £60+ entry fees!), we sought out the secret twin waterfalls near Venford Reservoir – these do not appear on a map and are totally unmarked, but I read about them and figured that between my research skills and Andrews orienteering capabilities, it was worth a shot! A 25-minute drive brought us to the reservoir's northern car park, where our adventure began.

Directions to Venford Falls:

• Start at the northern car park of Venford Reservoir.

• Follow the trail away from the road, parallel to the fence around the waterworks.

• After 350 meters, take the right-hand path heading downhill.

• Continue for 100 meters, then turn left towards the forest, which you'll reach after 60ish meters – there is a really charming wide but shallow pool with cute stepping stones here as a great place to stop for a drink!

• Descend through the moss-covered woodland, walking parallel to the stream for 200 meters or so to reach the top of the falls – this bit can be a bit sketchy with a fair drop over some hefty rocks – tread carefully!

• A few steps down a dirt track will lead you to the base of the falls.

The scene was straight out of a fairytale - every inch of rock and tree draped in lush green mosses, ferns, and lichens, accompanied by birdsong and the soothing rush of water. Max revelled in climbing over fallen oaks (drawing inspiration for his writing apparently!). Willow and Quinn delighted in crossing the stream at a wide section about halfway through, paddling in shallow pools, spotting tadpoles, and leaping across rocks. This was my personal highlight of the trip.

After about 90 minutes of exploration, we returned to the car and enjoyed a picnic among the gorse and heather, all feeling incredibly chuffed with our off-the-beaten-track success, not seeing another soul the whole time!

Day 1 PM: Moors and Tors

In the afternoon, we set our sights on Haytor and Saddle Tor. A 20-minute drive brought us to the Haytor lay-by car park. Over the next 90 minutes, we ascended both tors, which offer stunning views of each other and are only a short walk apart.

Remarkably, all three kids reached the summits under their own steam. The views were incredible and we were quite happy to have left this for the afternoon, with the sunshine burning off the clouds/mist. Max particularly enjoyed this segment, captivated by the natural playground of granite formations. Quinn and Willow were enchanted by the wild ponies, sheep, and cattle roaming freely, and we all had fun identifying various animal tracks (and poo!) along the trails.

We returned to the flat around 4 PM, feeling windswept, satisfied, and ready for a hearty meal.

Day 2 AM: Wistman's Wood - A Temperate Rainforest

Wistman's Wood, known for its rare lichens and mosses, had long intrigued me since I found out about the presence of Atlantic/temperate rainforests in our own green and pleasant land. Located on the park's western side, it requires a 90-minute hike to reach (probably 30 without a 3-year-old!).

Starting from the free car park at the Two Bridges Hotel, we followed a gravel path for about 30 minutes. The trail then opened into a landscape of large boulders (or “rockland” according to the kids), which the us all eagerly navigating, playing "the floor is lava" for the next 20 minutes.

Eventually, we spotted the tree line of Wistman's Wood - and it did not disappoint! Visiting on an overcast day enhanced the atmosphere, as clouds generated/trapped by the foliage lingered among the branches, creating a mystical ambiance. While entry into the woods is restricted to protect the fragile ecosystem, we got close enough to marvel at the moss-draped trees and capture some pretty epic photos (that still didn’t do it justice!).

Day 2 PM: Exploring Hound Tor and a Medieval Village

After a picnic near the Wistman's Wood trailhead, we drove 20 minutes to Manaton to explore the 1,200-year-old ruins of a medieval village near Hound Tor. From the car park, we headed straight over the brow of the rock formations to find the ruins.

As with so many of the antiquities of the moors, the site is unmarked and lacks informational signage, making it a quiet, almost secret spot. We spent about an hour there, with the kids playing “shops and homes” games among the ruins. A word of caution: I did stack it hard and twist my ankle on some uneven stones, so watch your step!

We returned to Newton Abbot around 4 PM, having thoroughly enjoyed two days immersed in Dartmoor's wilderness, encountering few people but plenty of wildlife and beautiful scenery.

In Summary

Dartmoor is unparalleled on a sunny day. Our escape was magical, peaceful, and surprisingly cost-free - no entry fees, no parking charges – we spent nothing at all. This always brings me immense joy, satisfaction and a feeling of cheating the system – something not often experienced in the UK. This time though, it also brough a touch of regret that we waited 18 months, amidst various hardships, to venture out again.

Vital Tips:

• Download an offline Google Map of the park; there's no phone signal whatsoever for miles.

• Pack for all weather conditions. Despite our global travels with minimal luggage, Dartmoor's unpredictable climate necessitates both summer and winter gear often on the same day – we got lucky and escaped any rain, but the microclimates of the various valleys and hills can be particularly changeable and the wind was pretty fierce on the top of those tors!

Our entire family agrees: we'll definitely return. Daddy Mudie even proclaimed that some landscapes we experienced rivalled the best he'd seen – relatively on our doorstep (sans traffic on the M4/M5 junction of course!).